SIDE POCKETS
Continental, or western, pockets are cut nearly parallel to the waistband. More common (and less casual) on-seam pockets run along the outer seams with a vertical or diagonal cut.

FLAT FRONT
Though generally informal, flat-fronted trousers also happen to be favored for suits by traditional men's shop tailors.

WIDTH
Jeans or fashion-forward pants may be more narrow at the ankles than suit pants.

BACK POCKET
Casual pants often have one besom pocket, usually with a button-flap closure.

CUFFS
Cuffs are usually 1 1/2"
wide – no less

WAISTBAND
On casual trousers they are softer, less constructed, and can either be non-rol with expandable sidetabs or have hook enclosures.

GRIP
A piece of fabric in the inside part of the waistband. Holds the shirt in place.

BELT LOOPS
Normally, trousers with expandable waists do not have belt loops.

PLEATS
Pleats can be "reverse" (folded inside) or "forward" (folded outside). Reverse pleats create a slender appearance – unless the pants are too tight, in which case the bulging pleats can actually make you look heavier.

BREAK
Cuffed pants should break slightly on the shoe.

COLLAR
Evenly stitched around
the edges.

FIT
Sufficient blousiness in the sleeve. Where it joins the cuff, fabric should be gathered into pleates, not tapered.

SPLIT-SHOULDER YOKE
A vertical seam down the youke on the bakc of the shirt.

PLACKET
A count of fourteen stitches per inch on a shirt's placket – the strip of fabric on which the buttons are sewn – indicates quality. Fewer than eleven per inch signals lesser quality.

LONG TAILS
Long enough to come together between the legs.

SINGLE-NEEDLE STITCHING
A more costly and time-consuming method of machine sewing that uses one needle to sew one side of a garment at a time, providing consistent, careful stitch. The faster less expensive method is to sew with double-needle stitching, working both sides of the garment at once, with a greater likelihood of puckering.

BUTTONS
Securely stitched for durability.

GAUNTLET BUTTON
An anachronistic button on the sleeve opening, above the cuff.

FRENCH CUFFS
To be worn with cuff links.